Tawang: The Dawn Lit Valley
Trekking Down a Beautiful Memory
“For every joy that passes, something beautiful remains” – I can’t remember where did I read these lines, but I couldn’t have agreed more. The sweet memories of a few nice things in life remain forever locked away at the bottom of your heart. Like the happy memories of a childhood trip remain always special. May be you smile remembering things like your first feeling of snow, the satisfaction of carrying your own suitcase, a picture of the distant mountains and your first cup of tea amongst the adults. For a change, you were allowed to do anything you wanted because you were holidaying after all. And you will agree that the happiness doubles when you revisit such a place after so many years.
As you have assumed by now, this was my second trip to the land of the sun, Arunachal Pradesh. My dad’s work place of my childhood days is a deep rooted stimulant of happiness. The first time visit to this land was oblivious of the world of mystics and enchantments. Fun was the appropriate word for it at that time. This time it was a different role-the accommodating child has grown into a restless traveler! Often described as the lesser privileged cousin of Kashmir, Arunachal Pradesh has now come into a stage that if properly groomed; it threatens to steal the thunder. Green, unspoilt and safe-this is how travel directories describe this place.
Tawang, the Western-most district of Arunachal Pradesh is located at the soaring height of near about 10,000fts above sea level. The land of Monpas, wild orchids and gurgling rivers, is a land of wonder. Sharing boundaries with Tibet, Bhutan and the Sela range of West Kameng (World’s Second Highest Pass), this place is a poet’s inspiration, a mystic’s solace and traveler’s delight. Believed to have derived its name from the 400 years old Tawang Monastery stationed at the western part of this small hilly town, Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh is a major hub of Buddhist learning.
We chose the Tezpur- Bhalukpong – Bomdila – Tawang rout. As we read the road sign, I spelled out the name Tawang silently. The word is derived from ‘Ta’ meaning ‘Horse’ and ‘Wang’ meaning ‘Chosen’. As the legend goes the site of the present monastery is believed to have chosen by a horse owned by Mera Lama Lodre Gyamtso who was on a search for an appropriate place to establish Monastery.
Our arrival was a disorder as we didn’t bother to book accommodations prior to our visit. As a result we ended up spending the night inside the car with the car radiator giving up its life in order to keep us alive in the chill. The view of the cozy double storied residential houses constructed of stone blocks with broad window frames looked so inviting that we almost wanted to break into one.
The morning was aglow with the sun rising at a quite odd hour. We then remembered, we were in the Eastern most part of the country. It felt as if the first rays of the sun carrying all the positive energy of the universe fall here only to bless this place and its people. After arranging a decent accommodation, we went out sight seeing.
A vague memory made a quick flash back and I decided to play guide to my companions. The sightseeing obviously began with the monastery. It is the largest monastery in India and the second largest in the whole Asia with more then 300 hundred monks residing. This monastery was badly damaged during the Indo-China War in 1962. Reconstructed to its former glory, the monastery celebrates two major religious festivals of the Monpas viz “Dungyur and Torgya” festivals. But, our mid summer visit did not enlist any festival. But, in these ‘no-snow’ days, an adventure sport becomes a good option. Tawang-Chu and Namjang-Chu are two ideal rivers for rafting activities. There is also an option for rock-climbing, paragliding, skating and other winter sport activities. Time was limited and there were a several number of monasteries to visit. We visited some of them and reluctantly skipped a few. Leaving behind the abode of the mystics, we drove up to the Tawang war memorial, a 40 feet multi-hued structure commemorating the bravery of the Indian heroes of the Indo-Shino war of 1962. The picturesque Tawang-Chu valley facing the memorial sends out a shudder down the spine. A war memoire I once read had described the valley in a rather demonic light. Death and beauty is a lethal combination after all!
To refresh our minds we escaped to Pankang Teng Tso Lake, only 17 km away from the township. Though the town is as silent as a lonely mountain, this place provided a lonely rendezvous with the nature. Detached, eye soothing and unique- this is how we saw the place. The blooming flowers near the lake made it like a portion of the Eden. If heaven really exists, it must be like this place only. More to this soul’s therapy, the hot water springs scattered here and there, were equally therapeutic to our bodies. A prolonged dip can actually cure your pain.
Trust us on a few recommendations. Sipping a hot cup of ginger-milk tea is not a new activity in a hill station. We suggest you go for a cup of butter tea, if you ever follow us into this part of the country and let us leave the secret of this special tea for you to find out.
But, leaving aside those places of interest, in simple terms, Tawang is a place for some languid recreation of your soul and body. The greenery around can almost improve your eye sight, not to mention the pollution free atmosphere. We just roamed around the place on the last day of our visit and wish it wasn’t the last day. The courteous, friendly, docile, hardworking and very hospitable people will make you think twice about the complications of a concrete life. May be the impeccable influence of their religion reflects in their demeanor.
Gobbling down hot momos and the sweet milky tea and an extensive study on Buddhist philosophies at the Tawang library were few things that made the trip count among many other trips that we take through out the year. Doesn’t matter if one is interested in reading or not, but a visit to the library full thousands of block-printed commentaries and treatises on the subject of Mahayana Buddhism and the peace prevailing in each and every corner is worth a stopover.
The hush that fell over the town upon darkness was somewhat eerie but we were too tired to care for that. The babbles of a nearby stream were the only sounds in the sleeping town but, soon, our snoring surpassed the sweet sounds. A satisfied mind brings the best sleep and course, best memories. Thus, this journey down the memory lanes wasn’t disappointing at all. Satisfaction had come to a full circle once again. And stressing on that, here we repeat, “For every joy that passes something beautiful remains”.
Fact files:
Most Important: Indian tourists visiting Arunachal Pradesh require an Inner Line Permit, which takes approximately three weeks to be issued.
Airport : The nearest airport is at Tezpur (Assam) about 345 km from Tawang. Buses and Taxis are available from Tezpur
Railhead : Bhalukpong (285 km) and Rangapara (Assam) are is the nearest railhead from Tawang.
Road: Buses and Taxi ply regularly from Tezpur (Assam) and Bomdilla to Tawang which is 180 km and takes 10 hrs. It is connected by road with other towns in Arunachal Pradesh and Assam via Bomdila.
Foreign tourists : Foreign tourists intending to visit Tawang must obtain Restricted Area permit from Commissioner (Home), Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh.
Best Time to Visit: April, September-October
Travel Tips: Take warm clothes along whenever you visit, Snacks will come handy as there are not many commodity stores available
About the Author
Marissa The Annoying
